After the Argentine ritual good-
by at the bus stop in Neuquen
(there was always a crowd waving
goodbye to their loved ones as the
buses pulled away), I was off to
the Welsh milltown of Trevelin, at
the foot of the Andes not far from
the border with Chile.
by at the bus stop in Neuquen
(there was always a crowd waving
goodbye to their loved ones as the
buses pulled away), I was off to
the Welsh milltown of Trevelin, at
the foot of the Andes not far from
the border with Chile.
After a day in Trevelin, staying at an official campground (first and only time on mytrip), I set off for the town of Futalefu. On way I heard an unusual vehicle approaching from behind, and as it was about to pass, I rode a bit to far onto the sloping gravel shoulder, and
just as the vehicle was about to pass me, I fell to the ground, trailer,bike and man in a uniform thump (I could not disengage my feet from my pedals).
just as the vehicle was about to pass me, I fell to the ground, trailer,bike and man in a uniform thump (I could not disengage my feet from my pedals).
Turned out the "vehicle" on my
heels was actually a group of 3
argentine dudes on their own bi-
cycle adventure. After swallowing
my pride as I uprighted myself and
my equipment, we introduced one
another and then hooked up a
bit later in a barn by the side of
the road, where we sipped mate
and swapped road stories.
heels was actually a group of 3
argentine dudes on their own bi-
cycle adventure. After swallowing
my pride as I uprighted myself and
my equipment, we introduced one
another and then hooked up a
bit later in a barn by the side of
the road, where we sipped mate
and swapped road stories.
The tiny town of Futalefu, on the
Chilean side of the Andes, was in a
torrential downpour for about two
days straight. The road to the west
of town was washed out, and the Rio
Futalefu was raging so hard that it
was brown rather than its signature
turquoise color.
Chilean side of the Andes, was in a
torrential downpour for about two
days straight. The road to the west
of town was washed out, and the Rio
Futalefu was raging so hard that it
was brown rather than its signature
turquoise color.
17.75 kilos!
Me Fisher-
man
Futalefu town is the base camp for a number of hard-core river rafters and kayakers
partly because this is one of the most exciting wild rivers on the planet but also be-
cause the Chilean government has designs to dam it in the near future. It was my
plan to raft the major rapids on the Fu but the water was raging too hard for safe
passage, so when the road was re-opened I settled for a drive past all the rapids for
put-in on the gentle part of the river. I had a peaceful meander down the river with
a bunch of American tourists and a couple of fellow cyclists from Chile, Francesca
and John George Martin.
partly because this is one of the most exciting wild rivers on the planet but also be-
cause the Chilean government has designs to dam it in the near future. It was my
plan to raft the major rapids on the Fu but the water was raging too hard for safe
passage, so when the road was re-opened I settled for a drive past all the rapids for
put-in on the gentle part of the river. I had a peaceful meander down the river with
a bunch of American tourists and a couple of fellow cyclists from Chile, Francesca
and John George Martin.
John
Fruni (superb mechanic)
(great cook)
Francesca, John and I made a pact to hang until we got to Coyhaique, a few hundred kilometers to the south.
They were perfect traveling companions, and I was BUMMED
when, after only two days of riding together, John's derailer had a fatal malfunction and I had to leave them by the side of the road. I saw them
twice after that, as they passed me crammed into this or that vehicle.
They were perfect traveling companions, and I was BUMMED
when, after only two days of riding together, John's derailer had a fatal malfunction and I had to leave them by the side of the road. I saw them
twice after that, as they passed me crammed into this or that vehicle.
On my own again, I set off through the wet and wild wilderness of the
southern Camino Austral toward the little fishing village of Puhuiuappi.
southern Camino Austral toward the little fishing village of Puhuiuappi.
